I'm a pretty confidant person when it comes to paint. The great thing about it is you can always paint over it if you don't like the color. That being said, I had never painted countertops before, I had never even seen an example of it before. Around the time I was planning to paint the kitchen I saw an ad on TV advertising a total countertop coating system, similar to the Rust-Oleum Countertop Transformations which includes a base coat, color chips, and top coat. I would have loved to use this, but with a price tag of $248 it was well over my $100 limit.
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| Image via Rust-Oleum.com |
After sulking around Lowes for a minute I, completely by accident, stumbled across my saving grace: Rust-Oleam Specialty Countertop Coating. Which was actually in the painting isle, a completely different isle than I was in.
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| Image via Rust-Oleum.com |
I had it tinted to "Putty" which was the darkest color on the box. I wish I was able to go darker, but beggars can't be choosers. Although in this case, I guess they can. Maybe it was me not looking hard enough, (although I swear this was the only box I saw in the isle), but I saw this a couple months ago in the same isle:
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| Image via Rust-Oleum.com |
Notice the "Tintable to Dark Colors". Where were you last year?!
I started by moving the appliances out a little bit, and then cleaned (with TSP for those wondering) and sanded the counters. I'm sure it said something like "lightly sand the area", but I was worried it wouldn't adhere, so I really sanded it. Afterwards I realized it didn't really help of hinder so I think a light sanding is fine. Box directions: 1, me: 0. After wiping and cleaning the counters again I was ready to go. At this point I would suggest taping off all of the edges, (along the sink, backsplash, walls, etc.), but I'm a bad-ass painter, (see my stats here), so I just used my favorite stubby angled brush to do my edging.
After taking a deep breath I used my brush to start painting around the edges. Surprisingly, the paint was pretty opaque after only one coat and was relived to find out I only needed one coat. And as for the deep breath, it was the last I took cause this stuff stinks. Like open all the windows and our back door and it's still stinky.
After finishing up the trim work I used a small foam roller to roll the larger surfaces. In some spots I used the brush to fade into the roller marks. After I was done I didn't touch it for 3 days. This was pretty easy for us since, like I've mentioned before, we still had our apartment for a couple months after we closed on the house, which helped with a lot of the big projects. I realize this isn't the norm, to completely stay away from your kitchen for 3 days, but just think about how potentially long you would have to go without if you completely removed and replaced the counters.
After the third day the counters were completely dried and I had myself pretty much a new kitchen.
After the third day I was excited to see how they turned out and was a little disappointed to see my brush marks along the edges as well as the rest being textured from my roller. Since I would have had to use a brush versus a roller along the edges regardless of using tape or not, I knew it wasn't me. It was hard to capture this in a photo, but see how the it's smooth next to the sink, then there's a feathering that happens about 2-3 inches along the edge. I'm sure I'm the only one who notices it, but it's something that's bothered me. I don't mind the texture so much but it's not something I expected.
As far as durability wise, it's not the greatest. Looking at reviews online, I think I should have done a second coat to make it a little thicker. I think this would greatly reduce the small scratches that we've made.
It might even have prevented the big scratch that Mike made with his homebrewing equipment a couple weeks ago.
As for the rest of the counters, they've all taken a beating. And that's something Mike and I knew would happen. As much as I would have liked to baby the counters after painting, I knew that wasn't realistic.
In the end, I'm still very happy with my counters and they made a huge transformation to my otherwise fugly kitchen. Even with the little nicks here and there, I would definitely do it over if given the chance.
And speaking of doing it over again, I've already hinted to Mike about the possibility of repainting them, this time doing a couple coats and seeing if that helps reduce the nicks. Keep your fingers crossed for me!












Hi! I painted my counter tops this color about 2 years ago. I did do 2 coats and it still chips and scratches. I am actually going to do it again this summer in a darker color. Even though it scratches/chips I think it is well worth it, I dont have millions to replace the counters yet so 20 buck paint will do!
ReplyDeletewdmk - Thanks for the info! I've been wondering if it was my mistake by not painting more than one coat. It's nice to know that other people are having the same issue. And I agree with paying $20 every couple of years is way cheaper than paying to replace them!
ReplyDeleteLove your blog! I can't wait to see what you do next!
ReplyDeleteLee
I wonder if spraying on the paint (with an air compressor dealie?) is the way to get it on smooth.
ReplyDeleteI've been contemplating doing this. The only thing that might help me with the edge chipping is that there was thick wood trim all around the edge of the laminate. I've pulled that off and plan on also painting down the sides that are now just the edges of the underlayment of the counter. But then I'll be putting a slim piece of trim back on (painted the same as the counter). So, if the edges get dinged, it'll be the trim, not the countertop. Also, I will be doing 2 thin coats with plenty of cure time in between.
ReplyDeleteI am concerned about the odor of the epoxy since my house is an open plan and I can't close off the kitchen from the rest of the house (and I have pets). I may just use regular water base paint, with multiple coats and a couple of layers of sealer.
Re your missing silverware drawer board: why don't you just cut a piece of wood to fit, paint it and glue it in place? Try Gorilla Glue or something like that. Or sandwich and glue together a thin piece that is bigger than the missing piece with the correct size piece in front - then maneuver this into place so that the bigger piece is behind the vertical sides. You can use a staple gun to attach it from the inside if needed or just glue it to the inside.
Your kitchen looks 100% better than the "before".
i'm curious to know if you put any coats of poly down after you painted? many of the tutorials i've read have suggested three coats of poly in order to protect the counters.
ReplyDeleteI didn't use any poly, (the Rust-Oleum box said it was needed), but if I were going to do it for a more permanent use that would be a really good idea to prevent all of the nicks I have!
DeleteI have had all the same problems you have described...and I followed the instructions exactly. Am also looking to re-coat in a darker color (Pewter over the Putty). Thought I would share this recommendation from a review which I came across on Amazon-
ReplyDelete"The only reason I would recommend this paint is for use as a base coat followed by Envirotex Lite high-gloss top coating. It is almost odorless and coats very evenly. It also dries very quickly, it's only been 1.5 days and when a rolling pin fell out of my cabinet and onto the new surface it left no mark. I plan to buff it with pumice polish as I prefer a less shiny finish."
I'm thinking this may be the route to take...until I can afford new cabinets and counter tops!!!